1850s Kalamkari Export Indian Dyed Cotton Cloth Machilipatnam Andhra Pradesh India Wall Hanging

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An antique Indian Kalamkari* wall hanging featuring a hand-painted cotton textile originating from the artisans of Andhra Pradesh. Hand Crafted … Read more An antique Indian Kalamkari* wall hanging featuring a hand-painted cotton textile originating from the artisans of Andhra Pradesh. Hand Crafted with natural dyes, this piece showcases a rich multicolor floral design that highlights the detailing and patterns characteristic of traditional Kalamkari work.
Circa 1850s.
Antique Indian Textiles And Home Decor Collectibles.
Dimensions: 35 x 37 in. Rectangular form
Opaque pigments on cotton fabric, block-printed
predominantly rendered in deep crimson against a natural ground
centered is a field of paisleys
Chevron and floral borders complete the composition
The textile is backed or lined with a printed floral cotton sheet

The designs are a combination of being block-printed and hand-drawn onto the cloth, usually with a bamboo pen, which was also used to apply wax resist and mordants.

Rectangular cloths such as this well-preserved example were produced in Machilipatnam (Masulipatam) in Andhra Pradesh state in India for the local Muslim community, and for Islamic export markets which included Persia and Indonesia. (Armenian traders were significant players in this trade at the time.) It is believed that versions were also produced in Persia in the 19th century based on the Indian imported examples.

Related examples are illustrated in Barnes et al (2002, p. 87), and Crill (2015, p. 99). Examples made for the Indonesian market are illustrated in Maxwell (2003, p. 344). Two versions believed to be Persian examples based on Indian prototypes are illustrated in Wearden (2015, p. 80 & p. 83).

The example here is in essentially perfect condition and yet has clear age consistent with age and use.

REFERENCES
Barnes, R., S. Cohen, & R. Crill, Trade, Temple & Court: Indian Textiles from the Tapi Collection, India Book House, 2002.
Crill, R., (ed.), The Fabric of India, V&A Publishing, 2015.
Maxwell, R., Textiles of Southeast Asia: Tradition, Trade and Transformation, Periplus, 2003.
Wearden, J., Decorative Textiles from Arab & Islamic Cultures: Selections from the Al Lulwa Collection, Paul Holberton Publishing, 2015.

* Kalamkari is an ancient Indian style of hand-painted or block-printed textile art on cotton or silk. Derived from the Persian words kalam (pen) and kari (craftsmanship), it literally means "pen work." The craft is celebrated for its rich, earthy color palette and detailed depictions of mythology, flora, and fauna.

Machilipatnam Style: This method primarily relies on hand-carved wooden blocks to stamp outlines and major patterns onto the fabric. The pen is only used to add fine, intricate details to the background.
The Traditional ProcessCreating a traditional Kalamkari piece is a slow, meticulous process that can take over a month and involve up to 23 steps.
Preparation: The fabric is bleached, softened, and treated with organic mordants—such as milk and myrobalan (tannin-rich fruit)—so the cloth will properly absorb and hold the dyes.
Natural Dyes: Artists strictly use colors derived from roots, minerals, leaves, and flowers. Black is made from iron filings and jaggery, red is from madder root, and yellow is achieved using pomegranate skins or mango bark.
Washing: Between every single color application, the fabric must be rinsed and sun-dried to set the colors naturally.
Cultural Significance: Originally used to create large decorative backdrops and tapestries for temples and royal courts, the art form has expanded to contemporary fashion and home decor. Common motifs feature the "Tree of Life," paisleys, peacocks, elephants, and lotus flowers, symbolizing harmony and nourishment. See less