Framed Chinese Embroidered Silk Collar Qing Dynasty

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An embroidered silk collar from China dated to late Qing Dynasty circa 19th century. Known as Yunjian (Cloud Shoulder or … Read more An embroidered silk collar from China dated to late Qing Dynasty circa 19th century. Known as Yunjian (Cloud Shoulder or Cloud Collar).
This striking example features a two-tiered design with eleven inner and outer lobes radiating in a circular fashion. The red inner lobes feature floral embroidery design in satin stitches, the border with twisted chain stitches. The outer lobes are in the shape of auspicious "ruyi", which represents the head of Lingzhi mushroom, a symbol of longevity. Each showcases fine needlework of butterfly with spread wings and various floral motif. A small ball clasp remains on the front. This textile art is beautifully presented in a giltwood frame floating within a double mat of conforming shape.
Detachable collars such as this were worn around the shoulders as part of the traditional Chinese garment accessory. With its origin back to the Han Dynasty and used it until the end of Qing Dynasty, the form evolves with time, but much of the ornamentation and fundamental symbolism remains the same. In Qing Dynasty, the silk collar with high quality like this would have been worn by noble or wealthy women.
Reference: For a silk collar, see item 95.34.2 in MIA collection. Illustrated on page 736-737 of book "Imperial Silks Ch'ing Dynasty Textile in the Minneapolis Institute of Arts". See less