Magnificent Antique Japanese Woven Brocade Kesa Monk's Robe Meiji Period

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A stunning Japanese Kesa (Monk's Vestment) made from thirteen columns of patchworks of shimmering woven brocades with luxuriant golden threads. … Read more A stunning Japanese Kesa (Monk's Vestment) made from thirteen columns of patchworks of shimmering woven brocades with luxuriant golden threads. Dated to late 19th century of Meiji Period, the elaborate woven motifs on this kesa feature repetitive roundels dragon and phoenix intermixed with peonies and chrysanthemum blossoms. Two shades of contrasting gold threads were used on a striking purplish-blue background, with a dark metallic thread for the outer border and a brighter thread for the main body. The brilliantly woven fabric was possibly recycled from Noh costumes, one common tradition in the Meiji period. Six silk squares in contrasting orange color, each woven with a golden phoenix in the center surrounded by a silvery slithering dragon, were sewn to the four corners and the upper longitude side of the Kesa. This completes the symbolism of the robe: the four squares in the corners represent the Four Heavenly Kings (Shi Tenno); while the two slightly larger squares in the middle section represent two compassionate bodhisattvas. Two orange robe ties remain attached to the front. The back of the Kesa was lined with a blue damask silk with a subtle woven pattern. Two loops remained with hand-stitches. The top has a later added stripe of loops that allows the piece to be hung on a pole for display.
The kesa is in remarkably fine condition, other than folding marks and some discoloration on the back. It makes a bespoken textile art.
Kesa is derived from the Sanskrit word kasaya, meaning “dark colored,” a reference to the saffron colored robes worn by early Indian Buddhist monks. It is essentially a rectangular cloth originally sewn from patches of rags, being formless, it serves as a symbolism of the ascetic life of one's choosing. In Japan, since at least the Heian period (794–1185), the kesa has been worn by Buddhist priests as their outermost robe, draped over the left shoulder and attached under the right armpit. While it served some function of protection, it was more a signal of the wearer’s faith, and became increasingly elaborate over the centuries. During the Edo period (1600–1868), many kesa worn were patched together from exquisite silk brocade fabrics that were donated to the temples by members of the aristocracy, ruling military class, or wealthy merchants. By stitching the fabric into a patchwork robe, the monks concentrated their attention on the creation of a devotional work of art, every stitch part of an act of meditation on the teachings of the Buddha. The number of stripes (from 5 to up to 25) indicates the wearer’s rank and the occasion for which it was worn, the highest number of stripes usually only being worn by an abbot during festival ceremonies. The normal daily kesa generally have seven columns. The kesa on offer is more likely a ceremonial robe for special occasion. See less