Japanese Woven Ikat and Stenciled Summer Usumono Kimono Meiji Period

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On offer is a “Natsu No Kimono” (summer kimono) also called “Usumono" (thin clothes) dated from late Meiji Period circa … Read more On offer is a “Natsu No Kimono” (summer kimono) also called “Usumono" (thin clothes) dated from late Meiji Period circa late 19th to early 20th century. This well-preserved garment was tailored from a woven indigo blue fabric with fine ikat design. The thin fabric was a type of linen/hemp that is almost seen through against the light, allowing great ventilation in hot summer days. On the indigo background, a white geometrical threaded pattern in warp-ikat design were woven into the fabric. A further design was added by stencil resistant dying (known in Japanese as Katazome). Repetition of small motifs of floral and leaves in lighter blue color was left permeating the entire surface. The two types of techniques complemented each other nicely, creating a complex, contrasting yet subdued textile. The sleeves are short and there are vents under both arms. The kimono appears partially lined around the neck area, but the lining has since been removed at some point. The thin fabric was kept in fine condition free of odor or noticeable stains or discoloration.
Ikat weaving was originated in Southeast Asia and spread to Japan Mainland in the 17th century via Okinawa (14th century). The cotton production accelerated the development of the textile industry on a much larger scale by then in the Edo period when Kasuri weaving became very popular among the general population. See less