Antique Japanese Silk Kesa Monk's Robe with Patchwork Meiji Era

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A Japanese Kesa (Monk's Vestment) with patchwork circa 19th century. consisting of thirteen columns with seven alternate stripes in an … Read more A Japanese Kesa (Monk's Vestment) with patchwork circa 19th century. consisting of thirteen columns with seven alternate stripes in an eye-catching patchwork. This Kesa is of fine condition and has been very well preserved. The background is of a shimmering golden-color silk brocade fabric woven with fine geometrical pattern with roundels of floral and grass motifs. The patchwork was done using a silver-toned silk fabric woven with geometrical motifs of lozenge-shaped four petal hibiscus flowers. The intricate pattern has a texturized embossed surface no doubt being the finest silk. Six brocade squares in contrasting bright orange color were sewn to the four corners and two along the longitude side, which has phoenix motif. The four squares in the corners represent the Four Heavenly Kings (Shi Tenno); while two squares in the middle section with represent compassionate bodhisattvas. Framed in the wide border of the same brocade used as the background but oriented vertically for a visual contrast, the Kesa is fully lined on the back with silk with hand-stitches and retains a small old paper label verso.
Kesa is derived from the Sanskrit word "Kasaya", meaning “dark colored,” a reference to the saffron colored robes worn by early Indian Buddhist monks. It is essentially a rectangular cloth originally sewn from patches of rags, being formless, it serves as a symbolism of the ascetic life of one's choosing. In Japan, since at least the Heian period (794–1185), the Kesa has been worn by Buddhist priests as their outermost robe, draped over the left shoulder and attached under the right armpit. While it served some function of protection, it was more a signal of the wearer’s faith and became increasingly elaborate over the centuries. During the Edo period (1600–1868), many Kesa worn were patched together from exquisite silk brocade fabrics that were donated to the temples by members of the aristocracy, ruling military class, or wealthy merchants. By stitching the fabric into a patchwork robe, the monks concentrated their attention on the creation of a devotional work of art, every stitch part of an act of meditation on the teachings of the Buddha. The number of stripes (from 5 to up to 25) indicates the wearer’s rank and the occasion for which it was worn, the highest number of stripes usually only being worn by an abbot during festival ceremonies. The normal daily Kesa generally has seven columns. The Kesa on offer is more likely a ceremonial robe for special occasion. See less