Framed Antique Chinese Embroidered Silk Collar Qing Dynasty Textile Art

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A silk collar from China dated to late Qing Dynasty circa 19th century. Known as Yunjian (Cloud Shoulder or Cloud … Read more A silk collar from China dated to late Qing Dynasty circa 19th century. Known as Yunjian (Cloud Shoulder or Cloud Collar), this two-tiered embroidery textile piece was a detachable collar worn around the shoulders as part of the traditional Chinese garment accessory. With its origin dated back to the Han Dynasty and being used until the end of Qing Dynasty, the form evolves with time, but much of the ornamentation and fundamental symbolism remains the same.
This beautiful example features a fifteen larger Lingzhi Mushroom head outer petals linked to the sixteen inner strips. Known as "Ruyi", the head of Lingzhi mushroom is a symbol of longevity. The surface is decorated with elaborate embroidery needle work depicting an array of floral and fruit designs. The polychrome silk threads were used in chain stiches and long and short satin stitches. Cloer examination reveals that the textile shows subtle patina that is consistent with use, indicating the age and authenticity of the piece as antique instead of a new reproduction.
The presentation of this piece is quite striking. In a deep shadow box, the textile was mounted within a mat of conforming shape on a bright pink and black background for a strong visual impact. The actually round collar was popped up as if it is being worn, rendering a nearly three-dimensional display.

Reference: For a collection of Chinese embroidered collars, see page 736-745 of book "Imperial Silks Ch'ing Dynasty Textile in the Minneapolis Institute of Arts". See less