Japanese Indigo Kasuri Ikat Traveling Cape

Details

Description

Known in Japanese as Bozugappa (priest's raincoat), this cape-like garment was worn by the travelers in Japan circa late 19th … Read more Known in Japanese as Bozugappa (priest's raincoat), this cape-like garment was worn by the travelers in Japan circa late 19th century to early 20th century (end of Meiji period). Derived from the cape worn by the Portuguese missionary, who first arrived in Japan in mid-16th century, this type of cape was originally reserved for the Japanese military members, until it was adopted by the general public in the 18th century. Essentially a simple semi-circular form, the outer layer was a patchwork of long stripes of clothes in a slightly radiation pattern. It was lined inside with another layer of woven cotton fabric. Sometimes, layers of paper were sandwiched in between to keep it water and cold-resistant.
The cape on offer is of fine condition and appears to be in its original state. The outer layer was made from an indigo dyed linen (likely Ramie fiber) woven with weft e-kasuri (picture ikat) that depicts patterns of Bagua (hakka in Japanese), butterfly shapes and dotted circle. The inner lining was a woven linen in blue and white in grid pattern. The cotton trims were hand-sewn all around the edges to enforce the strength of the cape. Based on the material, the cape was likely used in the warmer seasons. It was meant to wrap around the body overlapping at the front and fasted around the neck. There were four tassels with small piece of rectangular bone as button attached with space around the neckline for easy adjustment.
As displayed spread out, it measures 3'5'' x 5'0'' (104 x 152 cm).
To compared with two similar examples, see 2019.20.119 and 2019.20.76 in the collection of Minneapolis Institute of Art (MIA).
2019.20.76 is also Illustrated in "Textile of Japan" Prestel, page 280. See less