Antique Japanese Noh Outer Cloak Chōken with Stencil Decoration

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A large and striking Japanese outer cloak for Noh performance (known as Choken) circa 19th century (late Edo to early … Read more A large and striking Japanese outer cloak for Noh performance (known as Choken) circa 19th century (late Edo to early Meiji period). The robe was woven from a natural bast-fiber (known as Asa) likely fine hemp dyed in a light yellow. It was decorated with a large character with Katazome (stencil resist dye) in either dark indigo blue or a gold leaf overlay (surihaku decoration). The character is possibly the word "chi" in kanji or a Sanskrit character. Their alternate placement on the robe, both front and back, formed a geometrical pattern on its own.
As a type of Uwagi (various outer garments worn over kimono), Choken is a wide-sleeved outer cloak worn over the kimono, primarily by Noh actors performing dances in female roles. Although most were made from gauze-like silk, this robe is distinct in its material of natural fiber and a more austere decoration, which likely relates to the Noh character who worn it. Similar robes of less luxurious nature with Sumi Ink writing were worn by the pilgrims as well.
For a comparable Choken in yellow but in silk, see Accession Number: 32.30.4 in the collection of MET in NYC. See less