Retro 14k Yellow Gold Large Amethyst & Diamond Pendant Brooch c.1940s

Details

Description

14K yellow gold pendant brooch from the Retro period, circa 1940s, centering a large emerald-cut amethyst measuring approximately 23.6mm x … Read more 14K yellow gold pendant brooch from the Retro period, circa 1940s, centering a large emerald-cut amethyst measuring approximately 23.6mm x 19.4mm x 12mm and weighing approximately 35 carats, surrounded by an ornate openwork frame set with 17 old European and rose-cut diamonds totaling approximately 0.40 carats. Measures 35mm tall by 32mm wide, weighing 22 grams. Excellent condition throughout.

The amethyst is the star of this piece — a large, deeply saturated stone with rich purple color and exceptional liveliness, showing beautiful light return despite its age. Very minor surface scruffing consistent with its era, but no chips; it shines beautifully. The frame surrounding it is a showcase of handcraft that simply isn't replicated in modern production — every element was made by hand, with gold shapes individually hand-sawn, then assembled and soldered together one piece at a time. The result is an openwork border of scrolling gold wire, matte-finished floral accents, and bezel-set diamonds that has the kind of organic irregularity and warmth that only hand fabrication produces. It functions as both a pendant and a brooch.

The Retro period of the 1940s coincided with wartime platinum restrictions, which pushed fine jewelers to work primarily in gold — and the pieces that emerged from that era tend to be some of the most boldly constructed and ornately detailed in jewelry history. This pendant brooch is a strong example of that tradition: entirely handmade, entirely in gold, with a center stone of a scale rarely seen in period pieces of this size.

Condition: Excellent. Amethyst free of chips; very minor surface scruffing near the prongs consistent with age, shines beautifully with deep, rich color and strong liveliness. Gold frame structurally sound. All diamonds intact and securely set. No hallmarks present; metal tested as 14K gold.

Details
Brand: Unmarked
Era: Retro, circa 1940s
Metal: 14K Yellow Gold (tested)
Hallmarks: None
Dimensions: 35mm x 32mm
Weight: 22 grams
Amethyst: Emerald cut, approx. 23.6mm x 19.4mm x 12mm, approx. 35 carats
Diamonds: 17 old European and rose cuts, approx. 0.40 ctw
Construction: Entirely handmade
What's Included
Pendant/brooch only (chain not included)
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