Ikat, Silks of Central Asia, the Guido Goldman Collection, 1997

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Abr-bandi, the central asian name for the ikat technique, derives from the
Persian word abr which means "cloud". The ikat … Read more Abr-bandi, the central asian name for the ikat technique, derives from the
Persian word abr which means "cloud". The ikat style is not limited to Central
Asia, but nowhere have the ikat designs known as abr, or the technique itself
proved so enduring or so gloriously inventive as in the ancient centers of
Uzbek and Tadjik handicrafts- Bukhara, Samrkand and the towns of the
Ferghana Valley.
The craftsmanship of the abr masters, the abr bandchi, was their patrimony;
their secrets and their repertoire of designs were handed down through the
generations. Yet this art form has always been responsive to change and
receptive to new weaving methods created to simplify the process without
sacrifice of artistry.
In the nineteenth century abr designs were used to decorate fabrics made into
winter and summer garmets for both, men and women, into decorative items
for houses and tents. Abr fabrics were used to cover cushions and floor mats,
to make horse blankets, to trim clothing, to line costly items embroidered in silk and gold thread. Even in the early nineteenth century, the production of abr fabrics was a commercial venture, and throughout Central Asia it was a man's Job. The range of fabrics was quite extensive. The designs were exclusively warp based, with the weft playing the auxiliary role of bringing a particular hue
into the main color scheme. See less